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Route · 14 days · round-tripYacht charter route · Zadar

Sukošan via Kornati & Hvar.

Two weeks under sail from Sukošan through the Kornati, Hvar, Korčula, Vis and back up the Krka to Skradin. Anchorages, konobas and honest mooring tips.

The route

Day-by-day route

Click any pin on the map or any day in the route summary below to see that day's stop, story and photos.

Žut
Day 1

Sukosan → Island Žut

A long opening run of about 25 miles down to Žut, largest of the outer Kornati islands, with a handful of seasonal konobas.

Distance

10 NM

Sailing

~2h at 5 kn

At a glance

Route at a glance

Best season

May – early October (peak Jun – Sep)

Duration

14 days

Departure

Sukošan

Sailing area

Zadar

Route summary

Click any day to jump back to the map and see its photos, narrative and mooring tip.

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The full story

Day-by-day journey

Named anchorages, mooring notes and things to do for every leg of the week — the map follows along as you scroll.

Day 1 / 14
Žut
1
Day 1

Sukosan → Island Žut

There's no gentle warm-up on this route. From Marina Dalmacija the first leg runs a solid 25 miles south, so we usually slip the lines by nine and let the morning stay flat before the afternoon breeze fills in. Žut sits just east of Kornat, all bare grey ridges and dry-stone walls, with not a single year-round resident. The reward is space. Bays like Hiljača and Bizikovica open one after another, and the konobas here run their own buoys, so a table ashore comes with a night on the mooring. Anchor over pale sand and you'll see the bottom at ten metres. Dinner is whatever the boat brought in — grilled fish, a carafe of house white, the smell of wild sage drifting off the hill as the light goes.

Things to do

Anchor over sand in Hiljača bay

Walk the ridge for Kornat views

Snorkel the sheltered shallows

Fresh grilled fish at a Žut konoba

Mooring tip

The konoba buoys off Žut are the easy call: eat ashore and the mooring is thrown in. In a strong bura, tuck into Hiljača on the eastern side rather than the open western bays.

Dugi otok
2
Day 2

Žut → Pantera Bay (Dugi Otok)

Pantera, sometimes marked Čuna on the charts, is a broad bay of sand and gravel at the northern tip of Dugi Otok. Holding is good in five to eight metres and the bay shrugs off anything from the north and northeast, which makes it a calm night after the exposure of the outer Kornati. Row or walk ashore and it's fifteen minutes to Veli Rat, a 40-metre lighthouse from 1849 that locals swear was rendered with egg whites mixed into the lime. West of the anchorage lies Sakarun, a long shallow beach where the water turns the pale turquoise you get over white sand. Time it for late afternoon, after the day boats leave. Squid off the grill, a cold Pošip, and the mast lights coming on one by one.

Things to do

Walk to Veli Rat lighthouse

Swim at Sakarun sandy beach

Anchor on sand in Pantera bay

Sundowners on deck over white sand

Mooring tip

Free anchoring on sand at five to eight metres, well sheltered from the north and northeast. It fills up by early evening in July, so drop the hook before the charter fleet arrives and back down hard to set.

Kornati
3
Day 3

Pantera Bay → Vrulja Bay (Kornati NP)

Short day, so there's no rush. We tend to sail the long way round the outside of Kornat to see the crowns, the sheer cliffs where the island drops straight into open sea off Mana and Klis. Buy your park ticket before you enter; rangers do check. Vrulja itself is a working little bay with three konobas lined up along the shore, each with its own buoys, and it gets full in season. Book ahead if you want the good ones. Ashore, the menu is lamb from under the peka and fish off the coals, the smell of it carrying across the water long before you're seated. Ambitious crews climb Metlina, at 237 metres the high point of Kornat, for a view over the whole grey labyrinth.

Things to do

Sail the outer Kornati crowns

Book a konoba buoy in Vrulja

Peka lamb at a Vrulja konoba

Climb Metlina for the archipelago view

Mooring tip

Have your Kornati park ticket sorted before you cross the boundary. The Vrulja konoba buoys go with dinner, but there are only so many, so call ahead on a summer weekend or arrive by mid-afternoon.

Primosten
4
Day 4

Vrulja → Primošten

Primošten reads as an island from the water, a knot of stone houses on a headland tied to the mainland by a low neck of land. The church of St. George crowns the top, its cemetery looking out over the channel. Behind town, the Bucavac slopes are ribbed with dry-stone walls, the pattern famous enough to hang in the UN building in New York, and they grow the Babić that goes into the region's dense red. Most crews berth at Marina Kremik, about a mile and a half south, and taxi or walk in for the evening. The old town's lanes are steep and worth an hour before dinner. Swim off Velika Raduča on the way in if the maestral hasn't kicked up chop.

Things to do

Climb to St. George's hilltop church

See the Bucavac dry-stone vineyards

Taste the local Babić red

Swim off Velika Raduča beach

Mooring tip

Marina Kremik, a mile and a half south, is the standard overnight and needs booking in summer. Primošten's own town quay is small and gets swell in a westerly, so treat it as a lunch stop rather than a berth.

Trogir
5
Day 5

Primošten → Trogir

Trogir packs a lot of stone into a small island. Founded by Greeks, layered by Romans and then the Venetians, the whole core is a UNESCO site you can cross on foot in ten minutes and still not tire of. The headline is the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, and specifically Radovan's carved portal from 1240, worth craning your neck at. Climb the Kamerlengo fortress on the western point for the rooftops and the channel beyond. The riva along the Čiovo side is where the evening happens, gelato in hand, superyachts on one side and fishermen's boats on the other. It's a busy waterway, so keep a proper lookout coming through the narrows. Book the ACI marina; the town quay is short-stay and you rarely find a gap in August.

Things to do

See Radovan's portal on the cathedral

Climb the Kamerlengo fortress

Wander the walled old town on foot

Evening gelato on the Čiovo riva

Mooring tip

ACI Marina Trogir on the Čiovo side is the reliable overnight and worth pre-booking in high season. The town quay is short-stay only and the channel through town is tight, so post someone on the bow coming in.

Hvar
6
Day 6

Trogir → Hvar

Hvar Town is where the route turns glossy. The main square is the largest in Dalmatia, closed on one side by the 16th-century cathedral and watched over by the Fortica, the Spanish fort on the hill. Walk up before sunset; the climb takes twenty minutes and the view back over the Pakleni Islands is the reason people put up with the crowds. Those islands, a couple of miles off the harbour, are where you actually want to be at anchor. Palmižana on Sveti Klement has a proper marina and a string of konobas hidden in the pines. In town it's cocktails at Hula-Hula and late music in old courtyards, if that's your crew. If it isn't, cross to the Pakleni for a quiet cove and come in only for dinner.

Things to do

Climb the Fortica for Pakleni views

Anchor off Palmižana in the Pakleni

Drinks at the Hula-Hula bar

See Hvar's main square and cathedral

Mooring tip

The Hvar town quay is expensive, exposed and usually full; ACI Marina Palmižana on Sveti Klement, two miles across, is the calmer and safer overnight. Book Palmižana ahead and tender or water-taxi into town for the evening.

Korcula
7
Day 7

Hvar → Korčula

This is the longest single day on the route, around 35 miles, so it pays to be off Hvar early and use whatever southerly there is. Korčula's old town juts out on a little peninsula, its streets laid out in a fishbone so the lanes on the windward side stay sheltered while the leeward ones let the summer breeze through. Clever medieval planning. The town leans hard on its claim to Marco Polo, and you can climb the bell tower of St. Mark's for the roofscape and the channel toward Pelješac. In summer they still perform the moreška, the old sword dance, on a stage by the walls. For a drink, find a bottle of Grk from the Lumbarda sands, a white you won't easily meet outside this island.

Things to do

Walk Korčula's herringbone old-town lanes

Climb St. Mark's bell tower

Catch the moreška sword dance

Try local Grk wine from Lumbarda

Mooring tip

ACI Marina Korčula is small, so book it. The old-town quay is exposed to the sirocco; if a strong jugo is forecast overnight, shift to Lumbarda bay or a leeward anchorage rather than lying alongside in swell.

Skrivena Luka
8
Day 8

Korčula → Skrivena Luka (Lastovo)

Lastovo sits far enough out that it stayed a military zone for decades, and it still feels a step removed from the rest of the coast. The whole island is a nature park, thick with pine and dotted with the tall ornamented chimneys the locals are known for. Skrivena Luka, the Hidden Harbour on the south side, does exactly what the name says: a near-landlocked bay that holds calm in almost any weather. Above it stands the Struga lighthouse, an easy walk for a view down the cliffs to the open sea. The konobas here run moorings, and dinner tends toward slow food, smoked ham and local goat, rakija poured whether you asked or not. It's a quiet night, and after a week of harbours that's the point of coming this far.

Things to do

Overnight in sheltered Skrivena Luka

Walk up to Struga lighthouse

Spot Lastovo's ornate stone chimneys

Slow konoba dinner with local rakija

Mooring tip

Buy the Lastovo Nature Park ticket, and take a konoba buoy in Skrivena Luka rather than anchoring across the mooring field. The bay is famously calm, but the inner corners hold best if any swell wraps in.

Komiza
9
Day 9

Skrivena Luka → Komiža (Vis)

The hop up to Vis is proper open water, around 25 miles with little to duck behind, so pick a settled forecast and reef early if the maestral is up. Vis was off-limits to foreigners through the Yugoslav years, which spared it the overdevelopment you see elsewhere. Komiža, on the western side under Hum hill, is still a fishing town first: stone houses around a tight harbour, nets drying, a Venetian tower on the waterfront that now holds the fishing museum. Eat the pogača, the island's flat anchovy-and-onion pie, and drink the local Vugava white. The Blue Cave on nearby Biševo is the big excursion; go early with a licensed boat before the light drops off inside. Climb Hum at the end of the day if your legs are willing.

Things to do

Day trip to the Blue Cave, Biševo

Komiška pogača anchovy pie

Visit the Komiža fishing museum

Climb Hum hill for sunset

Mooring tip

Komiža's harbour is short-stay and can get gusty when the bura funnels down the bay. For a settled night, book ACI Marina Vis on the opposite side of the island and day-trip back over to Komiža.

Zlarin
10
Day 10

Komiža → Zlarin

Long day back across open water, so an early start again, and by afternoon you're closing the Šibenik islands. Zlarin is small and quiet in a way the busier ports aren't; no cars, one village wrapped around the harbour, footpaths through olive and pine. The island made its name on coral, hand-harvested from these waters since the fifteenth century, and there's a little Coral Centre in the village that tells the story better than I can. Buy a piece straight from a workshop if you want a proper souvenir. The harbour quay is short and shallow, so most of us anchor just outside on sand and tender in. Sit on the waterfront at dusk with a loza and watch Šibenik's fortresses turn gold across the channel.

Things to do

Visit the Zlarin Coral Centre

Buy coral from a village workshop

Walk the car-free island footpaths

Loza rakija on the harbour front

Mooring tip

The Zlarin quay is short-stay and shallow, so anchor outside the harbour on sand in five to seven metres and tender ashore. Holding is decent, but check your swing if the fleet packs in.

Krka
11
Day 11

Zlarin → Skradin (Krka NP)

After days of salt and open sea, the run up the Krka is a change of scene: flat green water between wooded banks, the smell of pine and river instead of brine. Skradin sits where the river widens, a compact medieval town with a marina right at its foot. You can't take the yacht up to the falls; leave her in ACI Skradin and hop the park boat up to Skradinski Buk, a wide staircase of cascades you can walk around on boardwalks. The town itself is worth a slow evening. Order the Skradinski rižot, cooked down for hours until it's almost a paste, and finish with the local honey cake. If you've a spare morning, rent a bike and ride one of the park trails along the water.

Things to do

Park-boat up to Skradinski Buk falls

Wander Skradin's medieval lanes

Try the slow-cooked Skradinski rižot

Cycle a Krka park riverside trail

Mooring tip

ACI Marina Skradin at the river mouth is the base for the park; book it for July and August. Take the park's own boat up to the falls rather than trying to move the yacht upriver.

Tijat
12
Day 12

Skradin → Tijat

An easy day, and after Skradin it's meant to be. Drop back down the Krka, out past Šibenik's old channel under the St. Nicholas fortress, and it's a short reach to Tijat. Nobody lives here. The island is low and green, ringed by smaller islets you can nose a kayak between, with good anchoring on sand and weed off its southern side. There are no services at all, so top up water and provisions in Skradin or Šibenik before you leave, and bring what you need for the night. This is a swimming-and-nothing day: snorkel the shallows, string a hammock in the olives ashore, grill whatever's left in the fridge as the sun drops. On a still evening it's about as quiet as the Adriatic gets.

Things to do

Kayak the islets off Tijat's south side

Snorkel Tijat's sheltered shallows

Hammock in the shoreline olives

Grill supper on deck at anchor

Mooring tip

Anchor on sand and seagrass in five to eight metres off Tijat's southern shore. There are no services on the island, so fill water and stock the galley in Skradin or Šibenik first.

Murter
13
Day 13

Tijat → Murter

Murter is the launch pad for most Kornati charters, joined to the mainland by a small drawbridge at Tisno that swings open twice a day. It's a low-key working island, and after the outer stops it feels almost bustling. Slanica, on the western side, is the rare proper sandy beach in these parts, shallow and good for a last long swim. In Betina, the next village round, they've built wooden gajeta boats for generations, and the little maritime museum there is worth half an hour. For the final dinner, find pašticada, beef braised slowly in wine and prošek until it falls apart, usually served over gnocchi. Berth in Marina Hramina or Marina Betina, both within a mile of town, and settle up for fuel before the morning rush.

Things to do

Last swim at sandy Slanica beach

See the wooden-boat museum in Betina

Watch the Tisno drawbridge open

Pašticada beef stew at a konoba

Mooring tip

Marina Hramina or Marina Betina, both within a mile of Murter town, take the overnight; book ahead in summer. Sort your fuel slot the evening before so you're not queueing at the pump on handover day.

Sukošan
14
Day 14

Murter → Sukosan

Last leg, and no reason to hurry it. The route runs up the Pašman channel, sheltered water between the island and the mainland, with time for one more swim in a quiet cove before you close the coast. Marina Dalmacija at Sukošan is the biggest in the country, a small town of pontoons, so know your berth number before you arrive and give the office a call on approach. Leave time to clean up and pack; charter handovers go smoother when the boat comes back sorted. If the galley still has provisions, cook a proper last dinner aboard, black cuttlefish risotto if you can get the ink, and raise a glass to two weeks that covered most of what Dalmatia does well. Fuel up on the way in so the morning is just paperwork.

Things to do

Last swim in a Pašman channel cove

Cook black cuttlefish risotto aboard

Fuel up before the Marina Dalmacija berth

Pack and clean for the handover

Mooring tip

Marina Dalmacija at Sukošan is huge, so confirm your berth assignment and a fuel slot with the office a day ahead. Come in slow and have fenders and lines ready on both sides; the fairways get busy on Saturday turnaround.

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