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Route · 14 days · one-wayYacht charter route · Zadar

Biograd na Moru via Kornati & Hvar.

A 14-day Croatia sailing route from Biograd na Moru through Kornati, Hvar, Korčula and Vis, finishing up the Krka river at Skradin.

The route

Day-by-day route

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Žut
Day 1

Biograd na moru → Island Žut

The first leg runs about twenty miles south from Biograd into the Kornati, ending at Žut, an island with more goats than people.

Distance

8 NM

Sailing

~1.6h at 5 kn

At a glance

Route at a glance

Best season

May – early October (peak Jun – Sep)

Duration

14 days

Departure

Biograd na Moru

Sailing area

Zadar

Route summary

Click any day to jump back to the map and see its photos, narrative and mooring tip.

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The full story

Day-by-day journey

Named anchorages, mooring notes and things to do for every leg of the week — the map follows along as you scroll.

Day 1 / 14
Žut
1
Day 1

Biograd na moru → Island Žut

Biograd is a working charter base more than a sightseeing town, which suits a first morning. Pick up the boat, sort the provisioning, and point the bow south. The run out to Žut takes most crews three to four hours under a light morning breeze, before the maestral fills in. Žut is the largest of the outer Kornati islands and effectively empty: a handful of seasonal konobe, some goats, and a scatter of quiet coves. We usually tuck into Žut Bay itself, drop the hook over sand, and swim before the wind gets up. Dinner ashore is simple and good. Order the brudet, the Dalmatian fish stew that every konoba here makes a little differently, and eat it slowly while the light goes soft over the ridge.

Things to do

Drop the hook in Žut Bay

Climb the ridge for Kornati views

Snorkel the sandy shallows

Brudet at a seasonal Žut konoba

Mooring tip

Most of the Žut konobe lay their own restaurant buoys; take one and dinner ashore covers the overnight fee. To anchor free instead, the sand in Žut Bay holds well at 6 to 10 metres.

Dugi otok
2
Day 2

Žut → Pantera Bay (Dugi Otok)

Dugi Otok guards the outer edge of the Kornati like a long stone breakwater, and its northern tip is where the crowds finally thin out. Pantera Bay gives good all-round shelter and easy anchoring on sand, fine for an early arrival or a lazy late one. Row ashore and walk the track to the Veli Rat lighthouse. It stands forty metres tall, built in 1849, and the story goes the masons whitened the render with egg whites. Worth the walk for the view alone. If time allows, it is a short hop over to Sakarun, a pale shallow beach that turns the water an improbable turquoise. Back aboard, grilled squid and a cold bottle of Pošip see out the evening while the lighthouse blinks awake.

Things to do

Climb Veli Rat, the Adriatic's tallest lighthouse

Swim off Sakarun's pale pebble beach

Kayak the quiet Pantera shoreline

Grill squid on deck at dusk

Mooring tip

Anchor free on sand in 5 to 8 metres. The bay is well protected from the north and northeast but open to the west, so check the afternoon forecast before committing to it overnight.

Kornati
3
Day 3

Pantera Bay → Vrulja Bay (Kornati NP)

This is the day you pay to enter the national park, so have the ticket sorted before you cross the boundary; the wardens do check. The leg down to Vrulja is easy, roughly twelve miles through the bare stone islands that give Kornati its lunar reputation. Vrulja sits on Kornat, the big island the whole group is named after, and it holds three konobe side by side at the head of the bay, the densest run of restaurants out here. Take a mooring off whichever one takes your fancy. In the afternoon there is a proper walk to be had up Metlina, at 237 metres the high point of Kornat, with the dry-stone walls threading away below you. Come down hungry. The grilled fish here is as fresh as it gets.

Things to do

Hike Metlina, the high point of Kornat

Dinner at a Vrulja konoba

Snorkel the clear Kornat drop-offs

Trace the island's dry-stone walls

Mooring tip

The three konobe each run restaurant moorings at the head of Vrulja; grab one and your dinner bill covers the buoy. In August it pays to radio ahead or arrive by mid-afternoon before the field fills.

Primosten
4
Day 4

Vrulja → Primošten

Leaving the park, the character of the trip changes. Primošten is mainland Dalmatia again, a knot of old houses climbing a near-island headland that was a proper island until someone built a causeway. The approach is one of the prettier ones on this coast, with the church of St. George crowning the top. Most crews berth at Marina Kremik, about a mile and a half south, and take a taxi or the shore path into town. The reason to come is the wine. The terraces around Primošten grow Babić, a dark, structured red that stands up to the summer heat, and the Bucavac vineyards below town are laid out in a maze of dry-stone squares that photograph better than almost anything on the coast. Find a konoba, order a plate of grilled meat, and drink the local red.

Things to do

Taste Babić red near the Bucavac vineyards

Walk up to St. George's church

Swim below the vineyard terraces

Dinner at a Primošten konoba

Mooring tip

Marina Kremik, a mile and a half south of the old town, is the standard overnight and worth booking ahead in July and August. The town quay itself is exposed and tight, better for a lunch stop than a night.

Trogir
5
Day 5

Primošten → Trogir

Take Trogir at a walking pace; rush it and you miss the point. The whole old town sits on an islet the size of a few football pitches, joined to the mainland and to Čiovo by short bridges, and every second building is medieval. The Cathedral of St. Lawrence is the headline, and specifically the Radovan portal carved into its west front in 1240, one of the finest pieces of Romanesque work anywhere on the Adriatic. Climb the Kamerlengo fortress for the rooftops and the channel, then wander the marble-smooth lanes until you are properly lost. It is a short day on the water, fourteen miles or so, which leaves the afternoon free. Buy a lemon gelato in the cathedral square, find a bench on the Riva, and watch the passeggiata go by.

Things to do

Tour the St. Lawrence Cathedral portal

Climb the Kamerlengo fortress ramparts

Stroll the seafront Riva promenade

Lemon gelato on the cathedral square

Mooring tip

ACI Marina Trogir on the Čiovo side is the reliable overnight and needs booking in season. The town-side quay is glorious but short-stay and pricey, and the current through the channel can make berthing lively.

Hvar
6
Day 6

Trogir → Hvar

Hvar is the busy one, and you feel the shift the moment you round into the harbour. The main square is the largest in Dalmatia, backed by the St. Stephen bell tower, and the Fortica fortress looks down on the lot. Walk up there before dinner; the sun dropping behind the Pakleni Islands from the ramparts is the view people remember from Hvar. The town trades on its nightlife, and there is plenty if you want it, from Hula-Hula out along the coast path to the cocktail bars off the square. My advice is to keep the boat out of the town harbour. Berth across at Palmižana on Sveti Klement and take the water taxi in, so you can enjoy the evening without worrying about swell or a 3 a.m. wash from a passing yacht.

Things to do

Hike up to the Fortica fortress

Day-sail the Pakleni Islands coves

Sunset drinks at Hula-Hula bar

Visit St. Stephen's main square

Mooring tip

ACI Marina Palmižana on Sveti Klement, two miles across in the Pakleni Islands, is the calm, safe berth and the one to pre-book. Hvar's town quay is exposed to the afternoon swell and better avoided for an overnight.

Korcula
7
Day 7

Hvar → Korčula

The longest passage of the fortnight falls today, about thirty-five miles, so leave by nine to be tied up in good time. Korčula earns the effort. The old town pushes out on a small peninsula behind its walls, and the lanes are laid out in a herringbone that lets the summer breeze through while breaking the worst of the sirocco. Locals will tell you Marco Polo was born here, which is unprovable and beside the point once you are climbing the cathedral bell tower for the view over the roofs. Grk is the wine to look for, a crisp white grown mostly around Lumbarda that barely leaves the island. If you are here on a summer evening when the moreška is on, go. The sword dance has been performed here for centuries and it is the real thing.

Things to do

Climb the cathedral bell tower

Wander the herringbone old-town lanes

Taste local Grk white wine

Catch the moreška sword dance

Mooring tip

ACI Marina Korčula is small and fills fast, so book. It sits exposed to the sirocco, so if a southeasterly above 25 knots is forecast, plan to move to a leeward bay or a sheltered marina before nightfall rather than ride it out.

Skrivena Luka
8
Day 8

Korčula → Skrivena Luka (Lastovo)

Most charter crews never make it out to Lastovo; it sits too far offshore for a standard week, which is exactly why the detour pays off. The whole island is a protected nature park, wooded and dark-skied, and Skrivena Luka on the south coast is one of the best natural harbours in the country. Its name means Hidden Harbour, and the long dog-leg entrance keeps the swell out no matter what is blowing outside. Once you are in, the quiet is the point. Walk the pine tracks up to the Struga lighthouse on the cliffs above the bay, swim off the boat in water that barely moves, and settle in for a long dinner ashore. The konobe here do smoked pork and homemade rakija, and nobody is in any hurry. This is the night the trip slows right down.

Things to do

Anchor deep in Skrivena Luka

Hike to the Struga lighthouse

Swim in the still harbour

Smoked pork and rakija ashore

Mooring tip

Lastovo is a nature park, so a ticket is payable. Skrivena Luka has restaurant moorings at the head of the bay; take one and eat ashore, or anchor free deeper in on good holding, protected from every direction.

Komiza
9
Day 9

Skrivena Luka → Komiža (Vis)

The hop from Lastovo to Vis is open water, twenty-five miles with nothing much in between, so pick your weather and enjoy the sail. Vis was a closed military island for decades and only opened to visitors in 1989, which spared it the overdevelopment you see elsewhere. Komiža, on the western side, is still a working fishing town, stone houses stacked around a small bay and boats hauled up on the front. Climb Hum, the hill above town, for the sunset and a look across to Biševo. The thing to eat is komiška pogača, a flat savoury pie of onions and salted anchovies that every family makes. The small fishing museum in the Venetian tower is worth half an hour. From here the Blue Cave on Biševo is an early-morning trip, before the tour boats.

Things to do

Early trip to the Blue Cave

Climb Hum Hill for sunset

Try komiška pogača anchovy pie

Visit the Komiža Fishing Museum

Mooring tip

Komiža's town quay is short-stay and exposed to the west; for a settled night book ACI Marina Vis in the main bay on the other side of the island. Save the Blue Cave for first light, when the sea is calmest and the queues shortest.

Zlarin
10
Day 10

Komiža → Zlarin

Another long one today, around thirty miles northeast across open water back towards Šibenik, so an early start helps. Zlarin makes a gentle landfall after the passage. There are no cars on the island, just one village wrapped around the harbour and a network of walking paths through the pines. Its history is coral. Divers have worked the red coral off Zlarin since the fifteenth century, and the small Coral Centre in the village tells that story better than you would expect. Buy a piece from one of the workshops if you want a genuine souvenir rather than a fridge magnet. Otherwise the day is for doing very little. Walk a path, swim off the rocks, and sit on the quay with a loza rakija as Šibenik goes gold across the water.

Things to do

Tour the Zlarin Coral Centre

Walk the car-free island paths

Buy from a coral workshop

Loza rakija on the harbour quay

Mooring tip

The harbour quay at Zlarin is short-stay and can be rolly in a westerly; for the night, anchor just outside the bay on sand in 5 to 7 metres, which holds well and keeps you clear of the ferry.

Krka
11
Day 11

Zlarin → Skradin (Krka NP)

The run up to Skradin is unlike anything else on the trip. You leave the sea at Šibenik, pass under the bridge, and motor up a widening river between green hills until the water goes brackish and still. Skradin sits at the head of the navigable stretch, a small stone town that has been here since Roman times and now serves as the gateway to Krka National Park. Berth at the ACI marina by the river mouth. From the town, a park boat runs up to Skradinski Buk, the tiered waterfalls that are the reason most people come. There are marked walking and cycling trails through the park if you want to stretch your legs on land. In the evening the town square fills up, and a plate of Dalmatian prosciutto and sheep's cheese by the water is hard to beat.

Things to do

Boat up to Skradinski Buk falls

Cycle a Krka park trail

Wander Skradin's medieval square

Prosciutto and cheese by the water

Mooring tip

ACI Marina Skradin sits right at the river mouth and is the natural base for the park; book ahead in July and August, when it is one of the busiest marinas on the coast. The park boat to the falls leaves from the town waterfront.

Tijat
12
Day 12

Skradin → Tijat

After the parks and the towns, this is a day to do nothing much, and it is well earned. Tijat is a small empty island in the Šibenik archipelago, wooded and low, surrounded by a scatter of islets that break up the swell. The sail is barely eight miles, back down the river and a short way along the coast, so there is no need to rush the morning. Pick a cove, anchor over sand and seagrass, and let the day drift. Kayak out among the little islands, snorkel the shallows, string a hammock between the olives on the shore. There is nothing to buy here and no konoba to walk to, so provision at Skradin or Šibenik before you leave. Grill whatever you bought on the aft deck as the light fades. That is the whole plan.

Things to do

Kayak among the pine islets

Snorkel the seagrass shallows

Hammock between the shore olives

Grill your catch on deck

Mooring tip

Anchor free on sand and seagrass in 5 to 8 metres. There are no services on Tijat, so top up water, fuel and food at Skradin or Šibenik on the way out, and pick a cove with shelter from the prevailing afternoon northwesterly.

Murter
13
Day 13

Tijat → Murter

Murter closes the loop back towards Kornati country, and it is a fitting near-last stop. This is the island the whole archipelago revolves around; a lot of the families who run those lonely konobe out in the national park have their homes here and sail out each season. It is joined to the mainland by a small swing bridge at Tisno, which still opens to let masts through. The obvious swim is Slanica, a rare sandy beach on this rocky coast, busy in high summer but lovely early or late. Spend the afternoon ashore, look into the ethno collection if the history interests you, then find a konoba under the vines for dinner. Order the pašticada, beef braised slowly in red wine with prunes, the dish Dalmatians keep for a proper occasion.

Things to do

Swim at sandy Slanica Beach

Visit the Murter ethno collection

Walk the Tisno swing bridge

Pašticada at a vine-shaded konoba

Mooring tip

Marina Hramina and Marina Betina both sit within a mile of Murter town and take overnight berths; book ahead in summer. If the swing bridge at Tisno is on your route, note it opens only at set times, morning and evening.

Biograd na moru
14
Day 14

Murter → Biograd na moru

The last leg is a short one, about eight miles back along the coast to Biograd, so there is no reason to leave early. Take the morning for a final swim in one of the Pašman coves across the channel, then make an unhurried approach and aim to be on the Riva as the light drops. Biograd is a low-key old town under all the marina activity, worth a slow walk once the boat is secure; the small heritage museum fills a gap if the weather turns. Berth inside the old-town breakwater at Marina Kornati or Marina Šangulin, and if you need fuel for the handover, sort your slot a day ahead, because the pumps get a queue on changeover mornings. Round it off with crni rižot, the black cuttlefish risotto, and a last glass looking out over the water.

Things to do

Final swim in a Pašman cove

Stroll the Biograd Riva

Visit the town heritage museum

Crni rižot at the marina

Mooring tip

Berth inside the old-town breakwater at Marina Kornati or Marina Šangulin, both a short walk from the centre. Charter handovers are usually Saturday, so confirm your fuel slot a day ahead to avoid the changeover queue at the pumps.

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